When everything is illuminated: Buda by night

The Buda side of Budapest, that is the “old city,” is my favourite especially at night, when a fairytail-like atmosphere completely surrounds this magnificent area. The Fisherman Bastion is even better than any fabled princess palace and way cooler than the postcard-like “Disney” castle of Schwangau. During daytime it’s almost impossible to visit, it’s so crowded that walking, let alone exploring the bastions, is a difficult task […]

The Whale of the Danube

There’s a big, seriously huge, colossal whale on the banks of the Danube, on the Pest side of Budapest. It’s made of sparkling glass and it’s really an odd addition to the old, regular landscape that characterises this part of the river […]

Going to the theatre not for the show: Budapest National Theatre

The plans for the construction of Budapest National Theatre have been going on since the first half of 1800. It had to be great, it had to be impressive, it had to be perfect. At least, this was how Count Szechenyi envisaged it to be when he proposed to the City his plan, with his pamphlet “On the Hungarian Theatre.” […]

Spring impressions

Easter trip in the Hungarian countryside. Intense yellow accompanying us all the way home in Pécs, from the shores of the Balaton Lake.

The colours of Pécs: the Zsolnay Cultural Quarter

My favourite place in probably the whole city of Pécs is the Zsolnay Quarter. Indeed, it is one of the most colourful, cheerful and kindly relaxing place (with human beings around) in which I have ever been. The Zsolnay Quarter used to be the “headquarter” of the factory (19th century) that produced some of the finest porcelains in the world, namely the Zsolnay ceramics, and that the City of Pécs decided to convert into the incredibly cool cultural area it is today […]

Remembering the Revolution – Part 2

Some pictures from yesterday’s celebrations!

Remembering the Revolution

This morning I checked my mail box and found something very strange, or at least strange for me as an Italian. The City had me delivered a flyer as a reminder of the approaching national holiday, namely March 15 in memory of the war for independence against the Habsburg rule. It struck me as very unusual, since back in Italy we don’t get such reminders […]

Pècs, pearl of the Mecsek

And here we are with the long-awaited first post on Pécs. Joke of the title aside (it copies the touristic slogan for Budapest everywhere adverstised as the pearl of the Danube), Pécs really is a beautiful city. It is the fifth largest city of Hungary, set in the “deep south,” a melting-pot of cultures and religions (Christian, Jewish and Islamic) […]

The Demons’ Parade, Mohacs’s Busojaras

Mohacs is a small city south of Hungary famous for the annual winter celebrations called Busojaras. As the festival takes place the same week we celebrate carnival, it has come to be identified as such. However, its origins can be traced back to quite a few centuries ago. Busojaras used to be a festival of the Šokci Croatian minority of Mohacs […]

Hungary through its ads

A post about Pécs is indeed long overdue. We started with Budapest, Vienna, even the Mecsek mountains/hills, but what about the city we’re living in this year? So we promise you’ll have it, a series of posts entirely dedicated to Pécs! But before getting to the real deal that it the wonderful city of Pécs, I would like to introduce you to Hungary through an interesting selection of tourism commercials promoted by the government […]

Hiking in the Mecsek Mountains

As the last few days have been a triumph of sunshine, we decided to take advantage of this lovely and unhoped for (though strongly desired) hint of spring (it has been so grey, cloudy and rainy this month!) to explore the part of the Mecsek mountains which are closer to Pécs. Hungary is essentially a huge plain, centuries of literature celebrate their puszta, but it has no “real” mountains […]

Dancing on the ashes of culture


In the world of Willy Wonka

Like Proust did with his madelaine, I’m writing this post with the help of a bar of chocolate, so that I can better remember the wonderful time I had exploring the most famous Chocolate Factory in Vienna! The Schokomuseum is a treat you do not want to miss if you’re really into chocolate (as we are!) The museum is situated on the ground floor of the factory proper […]

Princess for an afternoon

This december I finally managed to fulfill one of my childhood dreams, actually a dream shared by many girls (at least those of my generation, not sure about what little girls want nowadays.. maybe their model is Barbie or Peppa Pig…), that of becoming a princess. Actually, to be precise, as a child, I wanted to be like Sailor Moon, have superpowers and an awesome talking cat […]

An afternoon at the Belvedere

Gustav Klimt at the Belvedere: Disappointment!
As you might have noticed, I love Art Nouveau, but above all, I love Gustav Klimt. It was impossible for me not to visit Vienna without going on a pilgrimage to honour the master! Among all the museums in Vienna that host various pieces of his work, we went for the Belvedere, since it has the largest collection of Klimt’s paintings […]

Art Nouveau Tour in Vienna

Since we decided to spend just three days in Vienna on our way back to Italy, we opted to select a very specific “tour” for each day, namely an Art Nouveau walk through the Austrian capital on the first day, the Imperial Vienna with Schönbrunn Castle on the second, and a wonderful and delicious exploration of the world of chocolate on our last day […]

Cruising the Danube by night

To celebrate our first time in Budapest, and to pay homage to the Emperor of all European rivers, we decided to spend our last evening in the Hungarian capital by going on a cruise on the Danube. We sailed with Legenda and had a great time! I need to mention some fun-facts about our evening on the cruise (I really have to. My evil and judgmental nature compels me to do so!) […]

Recipe for a weekend in Budapest

Budapest is an awesome city: lively, beautiful and very exciting! For a weekend in Budapest these are our recommendations:
– Visit of the old city of Buda. It is a very nice walk on the hills, from which you’ll get an astounding view of the Parliament and of the majestic river Danube (especially at night) […]

Winter Holidays in the ex Austro-Hungarian Empire

Christmas time was approaching faster than we envisaged, and we hadn’t decided where to spend our holidays yet. Being stationed in Pécs, a beautiful city in the south of Hungary, our first thought was to take out of the drawer our old project and tour the medieval castles located in the marvellous Romanian region of Transylvania. Family matters, however, impended over us, and so we decided to turn our back to Transylvania and start our journey back to Italy […]

City of Unicorns

Here we are in Pécs!
The New Year has come, and now we are back in Hungary from our winter holdays! The comeback has been quite “chilly”, since we found out that the whole city of Pécs has been covered by a thick, white and velvety veil of snow! As we’re expert travellers and we always remember to pack what’s vital, yesterday we were at the shopping centre trying to find an adapter for my laptop and see what we found: unicorns heads for sale! […]